Sniping is not just a form of shooting, but an art. You must keep in mind, that the difference between you and a designated marksman, is that you will utilize your surroundings to a much greater degree of efficency, and you should have a distinct range advantage over your enemy. Snipers have the time to select and engage specific targets due to that range difference - the range they shoot at ( talking about military snipers here. LEO snipers rarely shoot above 75 yards ) is their silencer, their concealment, and in general - the capability to engage targets in complete safety and precision is what makes the sniper lethal.

Let's break this down into three major components - concealment, gear selection, and tactics.

First up is concealment. The standard method snipers use to camouflage themselves is called the ghille suit. This suit was pioneered in Scotland, when game wardens were out to catch poachers - this suit, is still made today, and can easily be made with household items. This is a pet peeve of mine - NEVER buy a ghille suit. Make your own. Why make your own? If you make your own, you can save the money, and most importantly, you can adapt that suit to almost any enviorment. Here is how to do it: You take some plastic netting ( used to keep the deer off mamma's flowergarden) with 1/2-1" squares, black plastic zip ties, and plenty of burlap strips anywhere from 1-2' long ( jute moss will alos work well. ), as well as a large peice of canvas/tough fabric. Take the canvas/tough fabric, and make it to the outline of the back of your body, but with leg and arm flaps wider than your arm. At the end and in the middle of each arm/leg flap, use a tip tie, making a loop to put your arm/leg thru. Use two per arm/leg. You may choose how to strap the rest of it to you ( don't use rope..... ). Once done, zip tie an identically shaped piece of mesh onto the back of the canvas. To keep the zip ties in their notches, hold a lighter up to them and melt the locking part a little. Every inch or so on the mesh, tie on a burlap strip TIGHTLY, from the base of your neck, to your heels. Congrats! You have made your own. To adapt it to an area you'll be operating in, stuff foilage under the netting.

Now, if you are still alive , for gear selection. Some people like to pack heavy, but I don't think that's a good idea. The MOST you should ever carry, is a canteen, a small map of area, possibly a radio, your rifle, 100 rounds of ammo, and possibly some other effects. I hate packing heavy - sure, you gain the ability to stay out longer, but you loose mobility. Besides, in a stalk, you can't really carry much anyways. For a radio, some of the Motorola ones are a good choice, but you must establish with your team when they are to contact you. As for clothing, standard BDUs will be fine. I particularly like the six-color desert for fall ( blends in with the leaves well ), the olive drab for summer, spring, and all nighttime combat, and light grey ones for the winter. Regarding boots, the Commercial Vietnam combat boots sold on USCAV are pretty good, as are some of the taller Thinsulate construction boots.I don't suggest an analog watch, as the ticking can give you away, and the glow from the hands act like a beacon in the nighttime. As for a hat, a standard boonie hat will do, as burlap and small plants can easily be fitted to it. That's about all you will need! However, there is the issue with scopes - people in the real world use 10, 6, and 4 power scopes on their rifles, but they shoot up to 1,000 yards. Since the most you might ever shoot out to is 100 yards, why would you need more than a 4 power? A variable power one in 3-9 is fine with a 32-40mm obj., but don't stray too high. Too much scope is never good. Make sure that your scope has finger adjustable target turrets - a coin adjustable one WILL NOT DO. Here are two scopes I suggest - http://www.airgundepot.com/scopes-rws-model-300.html -AND- http://www.airgundepot.com/bsa2.html

Now, for tactics. If you want to blend in, do a stalk. Basically, you lie down, and crawl inches at a time, pausing after every small move to taste and smell the air, to look for movement, and to evaluate your position. Keep as low to the ground as possible, as if you were crawling under barbed wire. Look for depressions in the ground, which will enable you to move out of sight, or hole up and wait for an enemy without presenting an awkward profile. Also, keep behind bushes, leaves, and branches. Chances are, if you can't see them, they can't see you. But if you are in the open, find cover. Always move slowly, as the eye is always drawn to movement. Watch where your feet and hands go, and stay away from long branches on the ground - they have a horrible tendency to snap and screw you over. Also, don't watch for individual figures - watch for movement. When you get into position, get your natural point of aim down pat - using muscle to hold your gun up is not a good idea. I am personally against the use of bipods, as they snag on foliage easily, and burden you with extra weight. I like using a sling to steady my rifle - you might like it too. Take the route that suggests better cover - if it will take you 10min. longer, go for it. Remember, the easy way is always mined. If there is a field, don't go thru it unless you have to. Follow the treeline, and treat the field as a shooting range.

Well, what can I say. That text above wasn't BS at all, but it wore my fingers down to stubs.... If you have any questions, SERIOUS questions, read thru this first, then ask if you must. No, 'what gun is best' questions. There is a search button for that.

Well, keep em' in the X-Ring! Any other advice will be well recieved!